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Fun with Medium Format FILM Images!
- Thread starter dave.gt
- Start date
Originally posted this 9 years ago on Facebook. Hard to believe I made this image 45 years ago. My taste and technique have not changed! For those interested, I used a medium format Pentax 67. This image was made from a scan of the original negative. Given that I used medium format film (6x7 cm--2.25"x2.75") I can make very big prints of this image, one of my favorites. It was shot day after Thanksgiving on a trip to Beach Haven to visit my Mom. Memories! 
Originally posted this 9 years ago on Facebook. Hard to believe I made this image 45 years ago. My taste and technique have not changed! For those interested, I used a medium format Pentax 67. This image was made from a scan of the original negative. Given that I used medium format film (6x7 cm--2.25"x2.75") I can make very big prints of this image, one of my favorites. It was shot day after Thanksgiving on a trip to Beach Haven to visit my Mom. Memories!
Attachments
Hi Friend: What setup are you using to scan with your GFX 100S? I use a Nikon Coolscan 8000 which I recently had CLA'd. I hesitated to attempt to camera scan my negs as getting the camera film plane perfectly aligned with the film holder target was a daunting thought. That, plus when I wanted to use the camera, I would have to disassemble the setup, then set it up again to scan. I like the above image very much.
Cheers
Dave in NJ
Hi Dave,
thank you, glad you like the picture!
We had the topic about camera scanning a while ago here at GetDPI - just check out my summary here: https://www.getdpi.com/forum/index....film-with-mf-digital-system.68450/post-816667 .
That said, I'm normally using my film scanners, the Coolscan 8000 and Flextight Precision II. I enjoy that they scan in the background while I can do other things, and the quality is more than adequate for my printing needs. However, I was curious to try out scanning with the GFX with a minimum investment. I had everything but the light source anyways, so why not try it?
I bought the light source (Kaiser Slimlite Plano), used the Flextight film holders, took a solid (!) Gitzo metal tripod, mounted the center column with a geared Manfrotto head in 90° angle, took out my Digitar 80 and mounted it on a Minolta macro rail. I used a mirror for aligning the camera. It's very simple indeed and I was a bit skeptical before: Place a mirror where the film would be, align the camera that the center of the lens is in the center of the image. I verified later that the grain is sharp over the frame. I didn't stitch, so I took just one shot per image. I tethered via USB to my computer.
The scanning procedure is very different from a film scanner. One needs to align each single image, which is a bit annoying. The setup took time. The scanning itself is rather quick per image, but you are involved the entire time. Of course, everything could be simplified with a repro stand. I just do not own one and didn't want to purchase it for this experiment.
What I very much like about the outcome is that you have a modern GFX100s raw to work with. What a relief from ancient scanning software! I also realized that the image looks rather grainy. I may scan the same image on my flextight just to see whether this is because of the film or because of the light source. There was no space in between light source and negative, so any structure of it most likely will be found in the image.
The raw files as results are fantastic. The rest not so much.
Will I do it again? I'm not quite sure. It was an experiment.
thank you, glad you like the picture!
We had the topic about camera scanning a while ago here at GetDPI - just check out my summary here: https://www.getdpi.com/forum/index....film-with-mf-digital-system.68450/post-816667 .
That said, I'm normally using my film scanners, the Coolscan 8000 and Flextight Precision II. I enjoy that they scan in the background while I can do other things, and the quality is more than adequate for my printing needs. However, I was curious to try out scanning with the GFX with a minimum investment. I had everything but the light source anyways, so why not try it?
I bought the light source (Kaiser Slimlite Plano), used the Flextight film holders, took a solid (!) Gitzo metal tripod, mounted the center column with a geared Manfrotto head in 90° angle, took out my Digitar 80 and mounted it on a Minolta macro rail. I used a mirror for aligning the camera. It's very simple indeed and I was a bit skeptical before: Place a mirror where the film would be, align the camera that the center of the lens is in the center of the image. I verified later that the grain is sharp over the frame. I didn't stitch, so I took just one shot per image. I tethered via USB to my computer.
The scanning procedure is very different from a film scanner. One needs to align each single image, which is a bit annoying. The setup took time. The scanning itself is rather quick per image, but you are involved the entire time. Of course, everything could be simplified with a repro stand. I just do not own one and didn't want to purchase it for this experiment.
What I very much like about the outcome is that you have a modern GFX100s raw to work with. What a relief from ancient scanning software! I also realized that the image looks rather grainy. I may scan the same image on my flextight just to see whether this is because of the film or because of the light source. There was no space in between light source and negative, so any structure of it most likely will be found in the image.
The raw files as results are fantastic. The rest not so much.
Will I do it again? I'm not quite sure. It was an experiment.
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I use a Pentax macro bellows with a 50mm macro lens and a full frame pentax (K-1ii) to scan 35mm. it works quite well and I can scan a 36 exposure roll in about 20 minutes.
the trick is most of those setups were designed in the film days for copying slides, so they work best with the same size sensor, APS-C cameras can be problematic--they need a longer lens than 50 and frequently may not be able to focus correctly. But for full frame they work well, and are best with a manual focus 50mm macro lens.
Bill Caulfeild-Browne
Well-known member
It's worth seeing twice!
tenmangu81
Well-known member
Louvre Museum, Paris, France
Hasselblad 500 C/M
Zeiss Planar 80mm
Fuji Acros 100 (I)
Hasselblad 500 C/M
Zeiss Planar 80mm
Fuji Acros 100 (I)
A real stunning image! If it were me I'd crop off the lower section of the image with the dark wall. It distracts more than it adds if I may say so. But that's just my own personal preference, and we're not in the 'image review' section of this forum, right?
Cheers,
JaapD.
tenmangu81
Well-known member
Thanks Jaap !! This is the question I had before posting, you are right. I just kept the bottom of the image (with the wall) because of the statue which was looking at the others at the upper stage. But maybe I was wrong, and a crop is always possible !!A real stunning image! If it were me I'd crop off the lower section of the image with the dark wall. It distracts more than it adds if I may say so. But that's just my own personal preference, and we're not in the 'image review' section of this forum, right?
Cheers,
JaapD.
scho
Well-known member
I'm late to this thread, but if you want to invest in some nice film scanning tools I would recommend Negative Supply
ggibson
Well-known member
Hasselblad 503CX
Zeiss Planar 80mm f2.8 CF
Ilford HP5 Plus
Forest riverbed by Graham Gibson, on Flickr
Coastal Redwoods by Graham Gibson, on Flickr
Coastal Forest by Graham Gibson, on Flickr
Zeiss Planar 80mm f2.8 CF
Ilford HP5 Plus
Forest riverbed by Graham Gibson, on Flickr
Coastal Redwoods by Graham Gibson, on Flickr
Coastal Forest by Graham Gibson, on Flickr
ggibson
Well-known member
Hasselblad 503CX
Zeiss Planar 80mm f2.8 CF
Ilford HP5 Plus
Standing among giants by Graham Gibson, on Flickr
Zeiss Planar 80mm f2.8 CF
Ilford HP5 Plus
Standing among giants by Graham Gibson, on Flickr